Hi. As you may know, I came home from Morocco last year with a plan to write my own cookbook featuring recipes I learned from the many women I met there. And 18 months later, I have finalised the recipe list and the sections. You'll have to wait (and hopefully buy it) for the actual book, but I wanted to share with you all the joys of cooking some of these foods. Obviously, the most popular could be a couscous or a tagine, but for me, its not so much the food itself but the circumstances in which I discovered the recipes.
Let me take you back. I'm in Fez, march 2010. A friend and I arrive at a hostel on the edge of the medina after a 3 hour train ride. Luckily, we had friends who had been there before, so when we told the owner, he was quite effusive in his welcome. He quickly displaced some Moroccan men to put us in a nicer room and promptly invited us for friday couscous the next day with his family. The next day, Fez, a historical centre of religious learning was buzzing in the morning until shops closed and the streets emptied for midday prayer. We followed our host out of the medina and into a french-built building onto a beautiful terrace and into a cozy living room where his mother and pregnant wife were setting the table.
During the course of this delicious lunch, we were invited by our host's wife to come back to their apartment and take a nap, after which she would teach us how to cook ghraif. We were hesitant to accept this generous hospitality, but I'm glad we did, and it turned out to be one of my favorite memories. After settling us into their formal living room with pillows and blankets, the three of us (my friend, our host's wife, and I) took a couple hours nap while the hostel owner went back to work. A couple of hours later, I was squatting on the floor of this very basic kitchen, learning to cook. I was very honored when I was asked to make tea, and after struggling to light the stove, the tea came out ok. (Now that I've had practice, it's much better).
We made so many ghraif, some spiced and some plain that I wasn't sure if they were for our consumption or to sell. A little later, our hostess's mother-in-law came with a kik fresh out of the oven, and following her, an aunt and some neighbors with their teenage daughters. It was a grown women's tea party with laughter and talking in rapid-fire Arabic. After being stuffed for the second time that afternoon, we packed up some food and were ushered out the door, where the group of us proceeded to go sit in Fez's version of the Jemaah al-Fna-a central square filled with food carts, street performers and dozens of couples, groups of young men and families. Unlike Marrakesh, this was distinctly a locals attraction and I feel honored to have been included.
At one point, we were all sitting on some steps talking and some young men, distinctly of the wall leaner category, (an unofficial expression for the young unemployed Arab men who spend their days holding up the walls, the ones responsible for the start of the Arab Spring), kept coming to sit closer. In a gesture of solidarity, the two older women of our group-our host's mother in law and her neighbor-moved to come sit on our other side, a move which blocked us from the view of these men. It was just about the nicest sign of caring and protection.
To give you a piece of this wonderful day for yourself, here is a recipe for ghraif.
Ghraif (غريف)
Ingredients: 2 cups wheat flour
2 cups coarse semolina flour
1-2 cups boiling water
salt
vegetable oil
Mix first four ingredients until you get an elastic and firm dough. The amount of water is not specified, but the dough should look like bread dough. Knead to get rid of air bubbles. You can do this by folding the dough in over on itself, and you will hear the air pop out. Separate your down into balls approximately 10-12cm in diameter. Let rest for 10-15 minutes. Coat your hands with oil and form into 2.5-3cm balls by squeezing between thumb and forefinger. (Form an "OK" sign with your hand and squeeze the dough through it). Using more vegetable oil (or a mix of oil and butter if you prefer), flatten dough into a square (until its stretched thin) and fold into thirds and then into thirds again.
There is possibility to flavour the ghraif with oil or spices in this phase. Once the dough is flattened the first time, brush with spices and fold it into thirds, brush with more spices and fold again. Flatten again and cook in hot skillet with some vegetable oil until golden. Eat hot or reheated.